We took the ferry over to Chappaquiddick at a time when the island was mostly vacant, less than 200 residents and no open stores or businesses. We went in search of the fifth and most elusive lighthouse on Martha’s Vineyard, but that turned into an unexpected seven-mile walk through mostly heavy sand, starting from the infamous Dike Bridge of 1969 (aka, Ted Kennedy and the Chappaquiddick incident). We brought no drinks, which was pretty foolish, but we made it back to the bridge, barely, by sunset.